Models of Diversity

London is often described as a multicultural metropolis, home to people of all races and religious persuasion.

Different ethnicities bring their own flavour and style to the capital, which celebrates its place as one of the most diverse cities in the world.

Next month, London is gearing up to host its annual fashion week, where all the top fashion houses will be looking to showcase their collections for 2012.

Along with New York, Paris and Milan, the London Fashion Week is one which has the eyes of the world on it. But it is a travesty that the diversity which we like to shout about with pride will be almost non-existent on the catwalks in September and it begs the question why?

There have always been accusations of racism and discrimination in the past about the modelling industry but why in Britain have we not seen another prominent black supermodel like Naomi Campbell?

"Agencies simply take on many black models and models from other ethnic minorities claiming it's harder to find them work," former model Angel Sinclair told OBV in an exclusive interview.

"Often, what work they can find is in niche markets leaving them ghettoised. So it's no surprise there are so few who make it to the top."

It is a point which has been made by Carole White, the founder of Britain's top model agencies Premier Model Management.

"(The industry is) driven by what sells and, in general, white blonde girls sell, that's the mindset," said White recently. "In actual fact, black girls do sell but they're not given as many openings. It is safer to go with a white girl, and in a recession people are very conservative."

Sinclair has been attempting address the balance to bring forward more models from the BME communities as well as challenge the stereotype of the size-zero model.

She runs her own modelling agency, Sinclair Model Management as well as setting up Models of Diversity, which looks to challenge the industry to recognise models of all races, shapes and sizes as well as age and ability.

"I think often designers and producers see using BME models as more work and perhaps putting their project at a disadvantage. I hear claims that they're harder to shoot and require more specialised hair stylists and make-up artists but these are simply excuses which wouldn't be tolerated in any other industry that took equality seriously."

There have been a number of black models, along with Campbell, who have been flying the diversity flag for Britain including the likes of Campbell and Jourdan Dunn. And Sinclair believes some of the more successful BME models in the country are guilty of not helping to inspire next generation.

"It's no surprise then (BME models) can become disillusioned and disheartened and just give up - it's a story I have heard many times. I sometimes think it's a shame that those few successful UK models of colour don't do more to support those working hard to realise the dreams they must have once had in the fashion and beauty industry.

While the modelling world gears up for Fashion Week, Sinclair will be holding a fuller figure fashion show which is supported by the British Fashion Council.

On the point about the need for the catwalk to reflect London's diversity, Sinclair says, "London aside, it is vital - how can someone put on a fashion show to promote their designs and exclude a significant percentage of your clientele? Aside from fairness it makes no commercial sense."

And it seems there might be a small change in the air, with photographer Jamie Lyon looking to diversify his portfolio and challenge the notion that women of colour are harder to shoot.

Click here to find out more about Models of Diversity

Picture: models from first ever all-black fashion event at London Fashion week in 2009

Zohaib Rashid